At Haywire Custom Guitars you can get help with:
Friday, March 9, 2018
Thursday, February 8, 2018
Calling All Customers
A customer called The Haywire Custom Shop and wanted to price a job on his Bass guitar to lower the action. He was quoted $35. He said, "Why so high if you're just lowering the saddles?" It occurred to me that he had no idea what was involved but just wanted the saddles lowered to achieve the desired string height. It's difficult to explain to players that reality and their idea of reality are two different things. It's even tougher to explain it without sounding rude. I know what he wanted which is lower action.
He wanted me to do it his way-which was to simply lower the saddles. However, if he already knows how to get the action lower and is asking me to do it, then why should I listen?
This kind of back and forth goes on all the time with customers in our guitar shop. It makes more sense if a customer is going to call an expert for work to let the expert handle it rather than try and "tell him how to do it". What if we listen to the customer and it comes out badly? Then who's fault is it? Should we tell the customer we did it the way he suggested and let him think he solved his own problem with some minor assistance from us? Do we say, sorry you have no idea what you're talking about so we did it the right way? I often get confused about what to say sometimes when I'm in that situation other than, "what do you like about your instrument and what don't you like"? Usually while listening I'll get a list started about the likes and don't likes then promise to get everything on the "What I like about my instrument" side of the list before turning it back over to the customer.
We're all customers at some point and need to be mindful that the reason we go to an expert for advice because most likely we tried to remedy it ourselves and couldn't. Common sense should tell us to shut up and listen, or better yet just describe the problem and ask if it can be fixed, if it's "yes" then say thanks, I'll let you handle it. When will it be ready? Nothing more needs to be said until it's ready and it's time to decide if the problem has been corrected. If "yes" then that's all there is to it.
The fix for the above example consists of a several part adjustment process for lowering action starting with the neck, first check the truss rod to see if it's bowed causing higher than normal action, a look at some filing on the nut to gain lower action at the strings near the tuners, then a look at the alignment angle in the neck for some correction, finally lowering the saddles for a four pronged approach that will make him a happy player and provide a long term fix. Apparently the customer didn't know about the other three ways to lower action so was the quote too high? No, it was very reasonable with many more operations involved than the customer realized.
Saturday, January 27, 2018
What Do Guitar Players, Guitars and Climate Change Have In Common?
They all have certain moisture levels that will increase and decrease over time. Recently I received a message from a guitar player with a problem. He wrote: " it's been several months now since buying my new guitar. I have a problem with the neck. Three months after the guitar adjusted to the local climate here, there are a butt-load of buzzing frets. Low E string buzzes in numerous places. B,G,D strings buzz in numerous places and 1st fret E and A strings are horrible". "The neck was virtually perfectly straight when it first arrived… almost all of the points at which the fret wires were cut stick out beyond the fret board a small amount, so that when you run your hand up the neck your fingers bump into each fret wire, on the SIDE of the neck…and the fret wire is sharp so it's a very unpleasant experience. It's present on both sides of the fret board".
Hmmm... this is not an unusual problem. Guitars are mostly made of wood and it is the nature of wood to contain a certain amount of "moisture". When the wood loses moisture it shrinks.
This is just plain physics. The metal parts in and on the neck such as frets-are metal, and hold no moisture and therefore do not shrink. Although we level the frets, adjust and straighten the neck, dress the ends of the frets before departure, sometimes the guitar is not treated very well upon arrival to it's new home. Guitars need to be maintained in a more humid environment than you may think. Get a digital hygrometer to help you determine the proper level so there will be no guesses.
The newly adjusted neck will generally "Hump" in the middle causing the, "string buzz in numerous places" described above. It is incumbent upon the player to maintain his/her instrument at an acceptable level of humidity so as to prevent this kind of problem. Of course, players not knowing about the physics of their new guitars will often times blame the builder or manufacturer when in fact they have caused the entire problem. So be a good friend to your instrument. Respect your guitar, take care of it and it will take care of you.
Saturday, November 4, 2017
Why doesn't the tone control work for the bridge-only pickup on my Stratocaster?
It works on a few, approximately 1% of Stratocaster guitars whether made by Fender or by Squier, or Affinity, Fender Japan, Fender Taiwan, Fender Mexico, American (circa 1991) or Fender China and more have no tone control on the bridge pickup. The tone controls do work for the other four switch positions.
Leo wanted a pickup position that sounded similar to a steel guitar. So now, the bridge pickup selection has no tone control wired to it whatsoever and no one at Fender Corp. since then has seemed to notice. They have failed to hear what guitarists for years have asked. Can we simply have a tone control on our bridge pickup?
Next time your guitar goes in the shop for any "tweak" whatsoever, ask the tech to put the tone back on the bridge for you. Most likely he'll do it. It's an easy fix. Stop in and see Haywire Custom Shop when you're in Myrtle Beach and we'll fix yours while you wait. 15 minutes and it's done.
Saturday, October 7, 2017
Haywire Custom Shop-Guitar Neck Adjustment Information
Haywire Custom Guitars Neck Adjustment Information
Because all guitar necks are subject to great stress as a result of string tension and seasonal change, there are times when a neck could take on a slight bow (or warp) or neck hump. This will rarely occur. However, if it does, there is no cause for alarm if you follow the procedure below for proper correction.
Remove cover (if it has one) so neck adjuster is exposed. Generally it's an Allen screw or a hex nut.
Sight down the neck from the top (as sighting a down the barrel of a rifle) in order to see just how much of a bow or hump the neck has taken. Hold the neck up at eye level and sight along the edge of the fingerboard on both treble and bass sides. It best to place a straight edge on the neck during this process. There are special ones made with cut outs for the frets called a Notched Straightedge below.
If neck is bowed, tighten the adjustable nut clockwise
If neck has hump, loosen the adjustable nut counter-clockwise
Place Allen key or hex wrench on guitar neck adjustment nut and turn very gently (small fractions of a turn at a time). Keep checking the neck as you proceed with each nut turn. Once the neck is straight give the adjustment nut a very slight added turn to compensate for the tension the loose stings will add once they are installed and tuned. TIGHTEN for " BOW " and LOOSEN for HUMP. Special Note: Be careful not to tighten the nut too much ( i. e. when it becomes hard to turn ), because it could result in stripping the threads or perhaps even breaking the truss rod.
On certain models of Solid Body Guitars the adjustment of the truss rod is made at the lower end of the fingerboard called the Heel or Butt End. The procedure of adjustment on those is same as above, follow the same pattern of correction as outlined.
If there is string buzzing after you are certain the neck has been straightened, locate the fret at the playing position that causes the buzz. Lower the fret by gently tapping with hammer. If necessary, file fret down, level and re-crown it.
The New Gotoh Side-Adjuster
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To make truss rod set-up and adjustment more convenient, Warmoth "Pro" Construction necks feature the Gotoh side adjustment mechanism. Inserted between the usual truss rod adjustment nut at the heel and the truss rod, this ingenious device uses inclines and wedges to adjust the rod tension. Initial set-up is still accomplished at the traditional butt end but future small adjustments are then conveniently done on the side of the neck.
Unfortunately Gotoh does not offer these mechanisms left handed. Lefty Warmoth "Pro" necks only offer heel adjustments on straight necks, and peg-head adjustments on angled necks.
The factory setting is with the side adjustment mechanism centered within its operating range. To adjust your neck for the first time, use the following steps:
Neck Adjustment Procedure
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Saturday, September 30, 2017
Have Your Guitar Neck Shaved for A Better Playing Experience
Uncomfortable with The Feel of Your Current Guitar Neck? Want it To Play Like Your All-Time Favorite?
Ever Have Your Guitar Neck Shaved for A Better Playing Experience?
Maybe It's Time?
Just one day on our bench..... then back to your door will get your neck shaved to a thickness for more comfort only $135 plus return ship.
We’ll also replace the finish on the back to help preserve the wood and keep it smooth and beautiful.
Neck
tone is an issue that no empirical evidence has ever put to rest.
However, comfort does affect your playing ability and technique which
is what matters most in finding and maintaining your tone. Start with
finding a neck that makes playing a joy and enhances your technique in a
way that allows you to play your best, then: Find the best amp that suits your ear for the tone you like. However other factors to consider are pickups, effects, speaker enclosures, volume, venue, room size, string gauge, etc.
Neck thickness should be chosen for what best fits your hands, not the
"tone" it has. That should be the major consideration in the choice of
your new neck. The timbre of a fat neck is noticeable. However, most
of the tone comes from your playing technique-
On
an electric guitar tones are affected by everything from the pickups
and amplification to pedals, pickups to speaker enclosures.
In
a live situation "wood tones" in an electric guitar will become even
less noticeable. Let's say everything is equal and the guitar is
perfectly in tune and intoned. The overall sound of your guitar may be
noticeably affected by a fatter/ thicker neck but generally only when
you are playing without the guitar plugged in to an amp. So...remember
high gain electric guitar tone is very much dependent on a players
technique and comfort with his instrument and not the thickness of a
neck.
Ordering From Haywire Custom Guitars
If you would like to order this or any other custom guitar, please contact us and we will be happy to discuss your guitar neck shave needs.
(Repost)
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Saturday, August 26, 2017
Haywire Custom Guitars info about guitars, guitar neck shaves, guitar terms, guitar improvements, guitar modifications, guitar repairs
Haywire Custom Guitars #1Spot for Guitar Players Information
Haywire Custom Guitars Blog-A blog about guitars,Haywire guitars custom shop, guitar neck shaves, guitar terms, guitar improvements, guitar modifications, guitar repairs, guitar necks, guitar bodies, custom guitars,electric guitars, Fender guitars, Stratocasters, Telecasters guitar tips and guitar resources.Great Tips and Ideas for Guitar Players! http://www.haywirecustomguitars.com, http://haywirecustomguitarscustomshop.blogspot.com/2017/08,http://haywirecustomguitars.com/blog.html
While working on guitars, I have found great satisfaction in figuring out how things work, why they work, and how they might be able to work better. Through the years, I’ve been very fortunate in meeting some wonderfully skilled and knowledgeable people that have been kind enough to share their knowledge and expertise with me. In the beginning, I often wondered why some of these people were willing to spend so much of their own time to share their experiences, but as I became older and more experienced myself, the answer to my question became simple as I realized how gratifying it was to share knowledge and experience with others.
Guitars are fun, and this blog is an opportunity to share some of the things that I’ve learned over the years with everyone. If you’ve ever wanted to know a bit more about all things related to guitars, take some time to browse through the different articles in the blog.
If there is a particular subject that you might want to know more about, but can’t find it in the existing articles, send me an email about what it is so that I can add the information to The Haywire Custom Guitars blog.
Thank you for checking out Haywire Guitar Info. I hope you find the information useful to you, and find the experience of learning about guitars enjoyable.
Thursday, August 24, 2017
A Word About Guitar Cases.............
Usually at
Haywire Custom Guitars we ship our used guitars without a case but we pack the
instruments very well. The reason for this is because shipping rates have
gotten very high. The extra weight and new rules for dim (dimensional weight)
weight add lots of extra "balloon" charges to a guitar which can sometimes double the
cost of shipping. Just like insurance, a
case does not guarantee perfect delivery. I have photos from UPS to prove that. We don't want to see our customers pay hard earned money and get very little value for it.
We would rather
see our customers save their money on the expense of extra shipping and spendit to buy a case on the other end after they receive their new guitar from
the Haywire Custom Shop. They can benefit from all of their purchase money instead
of handing some of it it over to the shippers. A good used case is not expensive and will
do the job just fine. Some of the players we build guitars for are on the road 24-7 and
when in smaller vehicles they have to use gig bags to cut down on taking up too
much space. So, before you opt for or
feel as if you need a "new
case" for your guitar think about how it will fit in your life-style.
In the 1950-1969
era when guitars began to sky rocket in sales, cases were generally included
with a new purchase. In 1969 I remember seeing a new Telecaster with a hard
shell case for sale in a local music store for $200. Today you can pay close to
that just for a guitar case. Since cases
are no longer always "free" with purchase take time to ask yourself
if you really want to get saddled with carrying a big heavy case to a gig every
night. Maybe a gig bag will work just fine.
Make sense?
Rick Mariner
Haywire Custom Guitars
Inc.
Haywire Custom Shop
Saturday, August 19, 2017
Do You Really Want to Be A Guitar Player?
Being a guitar player involves more than just playing songs for an audience. It's a job and like any job there are some tasks as learning songs, performing flawlessly, being on time, having a great attitude and mechanical adjustments and maintenance of your tools. The main tool being your guitar, of course.
Adjustments can—-and should—-be made periodically to suit your playing style, and it's essential every electric guitar player should be able to do these basic tasks. Do you drive a car? Can you change a tire? Can you adjust the seat? Can you check the oil and air pressure in the tires? Can you put gas in the tank? Most likely you don't go back to the dealer to have these basic things done so why not learn some routine operations on your guitar rather than sending it back or having some else do it? Learning how to change your own strings is a good start, as well as a few other helpful guitar housekeeping tasks. Learning how to set up your guitar properly will make it sound better, make it easier to play, and could possibly improve your playing!
Guitar fret buzz can be an annoying problem for any guitar player. It's very normal for a well setup low action electric to have some minor buzzing. Keep in mind ... if the guitar plays great for you and the buzz is minimal and you can't hear it through the amp then leave it alone. If not, simply raise the action until it's gone. It's not difficult. You can learn how to do it. Empower yourself. Learning some tips for eliminating and fixing guitar fret buzz can make you a more satisfied musician. Be a responsible player and ask good questions to make yourself a better and more valuable player.
Fret buzz is what happens when one or more strings are too close to the frets. The only fret a string should actually touch is the one being played. If it touches any others as it vibrates, it makes an annoying buzzing sound. A little fret buzz is hard to avoid if you like low action. You may need to adjust the string saddles to increase string clearance over the first frets. If you do this yourself, make your adjustments in small increments so you don't raise your action more than necessary.
If you take your time and work deliberately, you should have no trouble making basic adjustments and keeping your guitar in top playing condition. It is up to you, the player, to fine-tune the action on your guitar to fit your personal style. Your string height should be set so your guitar is perfectly tailored to your playing style. Learning HOW to do some basic operations is as important a part of being a guitar player as is as getting along with the others with whom you play. You really want to be a guitar player? Are you sure? Some things you just have to do whether you want to or not--sorry, it's part of the job. Learn some guitar housekeeping, and you'll empower yourself to be a better player and a REAL player instead of a Diva.
When changing your guitar strings remember the following:
Remove, replace, and tune up one string at a time-keeping tension on the neck as you go. Never de-tune or remove all the strings at once. The truss rod is designed and adjusted to provide counter tension to the strings. Removing that tension suddenly can damage or warp the neck. The vast majority of minor buzzing issues are down to playing technique. If your strings only buzz on the frets when you play hard it's normal and no adjustment is necessary.
Sure there are some things that you feel may be beyond the scope of basic guitar maintenance for the average player, but why be average? If you're not experienced with truss rod adjustment let a professional do the guitar tweaking. The same goes for fret filing and crowning, bridge and saddle work, nut adjustments, and so on. Many a guitar has been damaged by wannabe luthiers. Some guitar repair jobs can be done cheaply and easily at home. Instead of chasing around for the perfect guitar, try to find a great guitar tech and take their advice and ask how you can help yourself. You want to be a guitar player, right? Be one all the way.
Rick Mariner
Haywire Custom Guitars Inc.
843-347-5742
Tuesday, June 20, 2017
Have You Considered The Impact Thumb Placement Can Have On Guitar Technique?
Have you ever felt that your hand positioning was somehow holding you back?
It could be that the thumb placement in and around the first position is being crowded out by too much wood. For the sake of calling it something I like to refer to this problem area as the "Thumb Crest" area. Some necks have too much wood here. The photos here show just how intrusive the thumb crest area can be on a neck with that problem. In the photo you'll see I have moved it back about 3/4" to give the hand more space in the first position. The area is less crowded, accessed easier, your thumb is free, and now there is more room on the neck to play. Any way to make playing easier is always good.
It could be that the thumb placement in and around the first position is being crowded out by too much wood. For the sake of calling it something I like to refer to this problem area as the "Thumb Crest" area. Some necks have too much wood here. The photos here show just how intrusive the thumb crest area can be on a neck with that problem. In the photo you'll see I have moved it back about 3/4" to give the hand more space in the first position. The area is less crowded, accessed easier, your thumb is free, and now there is more room on the neck to play. Any way to make playing easier is always good.
Moving the Thumb Crest back about 3/4" on the neck is more comfortable.
Saturday, June 10, 2017
What Are Neck Profiles And Why Are They Important To A Guitar Player?
Every guitar player is different and so are his/her hands. It is not a "one size fits all" world. If it were then you wouldn't be reading this article. The neck is the part of your guitar that projects from the main body and is the part that the guitar player interacts with most. Therefore feel, grip, sheen, finish depth, width, string gauge and fret size all determine comfort and play-ability levels for each player.
If a guitar neck doesn't feel right the first thought is to find someone to blame. The manufacturer, the salesman, the Luthier, the guitar store. No not really. How about YOU? A player is responsible for educating him or herself in the areas where comfort is of major concern. It is important for the guitarist to be familiar with all of the parts of the neck and which ones specifically affect the comfort level they seek to become the optimum player they want to be. The term “neck profile” refers to the shape of the back of a guitar neck in cross section, and it’s often used interchangeably with the term “back shape” of which the "thickness" is an integral part. You can also refer to it simply as “neck shape,” although there are other important neck measurements with which “neck profile” shouldn’t be confused such as; neck width, neck depth and fingerboard radius.The shape of the neck's cross-section can also vary from a gentle curve to a more pronounced "V" however there is no perfect guitar neck shape for everyone, but their is for you-find it.
If a guitar neck doesn't feel right the first thought is to find someone to blame. The manufacturer, the salesman, the Luthier, the guitar store. No not really. How about YOU? A player is responsible for educating him or herself in the areas where comfort is of major concern. It is important for the guitarist to be familiar with all of the parts of the neck and which ones specifically affect the comfort level they seek to become the optimum player they want to be. The term “neck profile” refers to the shape of the back of a guitar neck in cross section, and it’s often used interchangeably with the term “back shape” of which the "thickness" is an integral part. You can also refer to it simply as “neck shape,” although there are other important neck measurements with which “neck profile” shouldn’t be confused such as; neck width, neck depth and fingerboard radius.The shape of the neck's cross-section can also vary from a gentle curve to a more pronounced "V" however there is no perfect guitar neck shape for everyone, but their is for you-find it.
It’s important to understand that neck profile doesn’t affect the sound of the guitar itself; rather, it affects your comfort level and that in turn, affects the way you play it, how long you can play it, how your hand feels after you play it and general satisfaction with not having to alter your style because of it and in the instrument itself. At Haywire Custom Shop our job is to have the right guitar matched up with the right hands. This accounts for our decision not to offer a "Click and Buy site" as we know that most players are not familiar enough with the parts of the guitar that really will matter to them immediately and over time. We need to discuss their comfort needs FIRST. Only then will we be on the right track to offer them the best instrument for their playing style for now and as it evolves in the future. We want them to have a guitar they can "grow" with and feel great about playing.
So, what does all this mean to the average guitar player who is considering buying a guitar with a description that mentions the instrument’s neck profile? Everything! Comfort, sound, feel, speed, action, fatigue and overall feeling of reliability in the instrument are affected by the neck profile.
Because of this there is no perfect guitar neck shape for everyone. Your neck profile should make it easy for you to comfortably reach all the frets. Bottom line: Neck profile and neck width is important; so pay attention to what feels right for you so WE can get it right for you because ONLY YOU know what feels right for you.
Monday, March 20, 2017
A Weak or Intermittent Signal in an Electric Guitar Circuit
I bought a Fender Strat guitar a few months ago. After I received it I have a problem concerning the five way switch intermittently working. I used it for awhile to see if it would clear up. The switch works much less now. I have to mess with it just to get it to work and then at times it will work but at only very low volume. I try moving it thinking there could be a sweet spot that the switch will work and sometimes it is there and sometimes not. What is the problem?..........Thanks, Marco
What you're describing doesn't sound like it's necessarily a switch problem. It could be one of several common circuit problems.
It sounds more like a wire coming loose from a soldered connection and making partial contact and thereby creating a weak signal leading into the amp. But let's look into other causes.
The 5 way switch has 5 connections typical in a Strat pickup configuration.
Each set of contacts in the 5 way switch can be in one of two states: either "closed" meaning the contacts are touching and electricity can flow between them and the pickups are selected, or "open", meaning the contacts are separated and the switch is nonconducting and that is the pickup selection that is "off".
The switch mechanism actuating the transition between the pickups.
It may be possible that one contact is not working correctly, but it is extremely rare when there is a problem in "every" position of a 5 way switch. That generally indicates a weak signal flowing somewhere in the circuit. This may lead to the conclusion that it's the switch but it could be a weak signal somewhere in the circuit causing the interruption.
Most specifically let's say there is a weak signal to the amp because the circuit is incomplete or weak.
A weak or intermittent signal in any electric guitar circuit can be caused by any one of the following several things:
1-a bad cable from the guitar to the amp
2-a ground wire out of place intermittently touching a hot wire
3-a loose wire
4-a cold solder joint
5-a wire that is only connected by a thread
on one of the multi-strands of the stranded composition of the wire
6- wire on the output jack is loose or barely making contact
7-not enough tension on the tongue (hot) contact on the guitar output contact
8-bad switch
9-poor solder connection to the switch
These are the most common and easily fixed guitar problems.
It is possible that a solder joint just needs to be re-heated, or a
wire is just hanging by a strand or two and needs more contact.
Any of these can mimic a broken pickup a broken switch, a bad pot etc.
Maybe the switch is fine after all. Take a look and tell me what you see.
Maybe the switch is fine after all. Take a look and tell me what you see.
Rick Mariner
Haywire Custom Guitars Inc.
Haywire Custom Shop
https://www.haywirecustomguitars.com
843-347-5742
Haywire Custom Guitars Inc.
Haywire Custom Shop
https://www.haywirecustomguitars.com
843-347-5742
Friday, March 17, 2017
Do You Really Need to Buy NEW Guitar Pickups???
us going in the right direction. Here are some excerpts of an article I wrote about finding your sound. Guitarists sometimes see greener grass when it could be its already green enough. They love to customize their guitars. The first thing they want to change are the pickups. Having never built one or tested a guitar pickup most players will forge ahead anyway and make the BIG CHANGE. I have to ask....Why? Have you tested yours first? Is it at the max height for best sound? Is it broken? If it's picking up sound it's doing the job.
It basically mirrors back the sound.
It simply hears the sound signal and transfers it to the amp & speaker. When you're singing what do you notice about voice quality when backing off the mike or singing very close? Is there a "sweet spot" where its perfect? Same goes for pickups. There are a few factors you may want to test before you go to the trouble and expense of adding new pickups.
After all, I use all kinds, all brands and styles in the custom guitars I build guitars for players and still find it difficult to determine if there is much difference between most. They are magnets and copper wire.
All pickups have the basically the same ingredients.
Pickup companies are trying to sell you on their brand, guitar mechanics will give you the facts. Salesman will give you the bull.
So..... try the least expensive methods first before going nuclear.
First: test the strings and try a string change to a different set of strings. Newer strings are generally stiffer and fresher thus a cleaner tone. Also, try a heavier gauge string to give you more body in the sound.
The second test for you will be more subtle, but it will be very effective. It involves distance and signal strength. The pickups have elevator screws that are there to raise and lower them closer or farther from the strings. You'll just need a Philips head screw driver and turn until you see the pickups move either up or down where you want them and repeat the process until the pickups are within the range where they will hear the strings close up and personal.
Then begin your testing. Play,.... then lower the pickups incrementally between testing sessions so as to try several different levels of signal strength. Only in this way can you hear the differences. Remember, clarity and sound quality have more to do with "Your" ear than what other players hear.
A clean sound for some players may find the pickups very low under the strings whereas a clean sound for other players may find the pickups snugged as close to the strings as physics will allow. Distortions can occur on the extremes of this spectrum
The next test is to check the amp you are playing from. For this test you need a clean control. Be sure there are no obstructions or ways in which players like to process or in some cases "over process" themselves to impeded the pure sound of what the pickup hears. This means plug the guitar directly into the amp with no pedals, stomp boxes or effect in between to change the tone.
Your results will be much better. Some players make the mistake of testing each guitar on the same setting in their search for the ideal sound in a guitar when the result will simply be just testing how different guitars sound on the same setting.
This test will produce results--but not the results you're looking for. Remember, every guitar is set up differently. The strings are generally different ages or brands. So for the perfect empirical evidence needed everything must remain the same.
Flatten The EQ
So, to make sure you're getting the sound you want to hear from your pickups try different EQ settings on the amp. Be sure that if there are two volume controls turn the channel volume low and the master way up. Start with flat EQ setting the introduce more or less high and low frequencies to get the sound best for your ear and the music that you are playing.
Keep in mind a change of pickups should be one of the last resorts in finding your sound and not the first.
There are so many brands of pickups how do you know where to start? With some 100 plus pickup manufacturers just in the USA if you decide on a brand then the next problem is which pickup does that brand have that will do the job? At $150 average price for a set of 2 pickups just for a Telecaster how long can you afford to keep making changes in your search for the Holy Grail? If after these free tests you should decide a pickup change is warranted be sure to take an experienced tech with you to the pickup store. The specs you'll need to be aware of are output and magnet strength. Output, measured in Ohms has nothing to do with tone or clarity just resistance. The magnet strength is important because a larger heavier magnet will cause the strings to be pulled out of tune and thwart sustain so be very careful here so as not to equate magnet strength or Ohms with "better quality". The least expensive fixes are often the most effective. If done properly and methodically you'll be surprised a what you'll find and how many different tones are already in your pickups if you peek inside.
us going in the right direction. Here are some excerpts of an article I wrote about finding your sound. Guitarists sometimes see greener grass when it could be its already green enough. They love to customize their guitars. The first thing they want to change are the pickups. Having never built one or tested a guitar pickup most players will forge ahead anyway and make the BIG CHANGE. I have to ask....Why? Have you tested yours first? Is it at the max height for best sound? Is it broken? If it's picking up sound it's doing the job.
It basically mirrors back the sound.
It simply hears the sound signal and transfers it to the amp & speaker. When you're singing what do you notice about voice quality when backing off the mike or singing very close? Is there a "sweet spot" where its perfect? Same goes for pickups. There are a few factors you may want to test before you go to the trouble and expense of adding new pickups.
After all, I use all kinds, all brands and styles in the custom guitars I build guitars for players and still find it difficult to determine if there is much difference between most. They are magnets and copper wire.
All pickups have the basically the same ingredients.
Pickup companies are trying to sell you on their brand, guitar mechanics will give you the facts. Salesman will give you the bull.
So..... try the least expensive methods first before going nuclear.
First: test the strings and try a string change to a different set of strings. Newer strings are generally stiffer and fresher thus a cleaner tone. Also, try a heavier gauge string to give you more body in the sound.
The second test for you will be more subtle, but it will be very effective. It involves distance and signal strength. The pickups have elevator screws that are there to raise and lower them closer or farther from the strings. You'll just need a Philips head screw driver and turn until you see the pickups move either up or down where you want them and repeat the process until the pickups are within the range where they will hear the strings close up and personal.
Then begin your testing. Play,.... then lower the pickups incrementally between testing sessions so as to try several different levels of signal strength. Only in this way can you hear the differences. Remember, clarity and sound quality have more to do with "Your" ear than what other players hear.
A clean sound for some players may find the pickups very low under the strings whereas a clean sound for other players may find the pickups snugged as close to the strings as physics will allow. Distortions can occur on the extremes of this spectrum
The next test is to check the amp you are playing from. For this test you need a clean control. Be sure there are no obstructions or ways in which players like to process or in some cases "over process" themselves to impeded the pure sound of what the pickup hears. This means plug the guitar directly into the amp with no pedals, stomp boxes or effect in between to change the tone.
Your results will be much better. Some players make the mistake of testing each guitar on the same setting in their search for the ideal sound in a guitar when the result will simply be just testing how different guitars sound on the same setting.
This test will produce results--but not the results you're looking for. Remember, every guitar is set up differently. The strings are generally different ages or brands. So for the perfect empirical evidence needed everything must remain the same.
Flatten The EQ
So, to make sure you're getting the sound you want to hear from your pickups try different EQ settings on the amp. Be sure that if there are two volume controls turn the channel volume low and the master way up. Start with flat EQ setting the introduce more or less high and low frequencies to get the sound best for your ear and the music that you are playing.
Keep in mind a change of pickups should be one of the last resorts in finding your sound and not the first.
There are so many brands of pickups how do you know where to start? With some 100 plus pickup manufacturers just in the USA if you decide on a brand then the next problem is which pickup does that brand have that will do the job? At $150 average price for a set of 2 pickups just for a Telecaster how long can you afford to keep making changes in your search for the Holy Grail? If after these free tests you should decide a pickup change is warranted be sure to take an experienced tech with you to the pickup store. The specs you'll need to be aware of are output and magnet strength. Output, measured in Ohms has nothing to do with tone or clarity just resistance. The magnet strength is important because a larger heavier magnet will cause the strings to be pulled out of tune and thwart sustain so be very careful here so as not to equate magnet strength or Ohms with "better quality". The least expensive fixes are often the most effective. If done properly and methodically you'll be surprised a what you'll find and how many different tones are already in your pickups if you peek inside.
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